Bombs are
exploding overhead and people fill the streets. Shouts ring out down the street, clouds of
smoke following the screams. Looking
down the hill you see countless fires raging in the streets, illuminating their
surroundings. “Where am I?” you wonder
aloud in a language that few people around you understand. Is this some strange war zone you are
in? No, this is Peru. Happy New Year’s.
The New
Year’s celebration is Peru is strikingly different from that in the
states. Sure there is drinking, dancing,
and food to go around, but there is also so much more than that. In a country rooted in traditions, it’s no
surprise that there customs that extend beyond the immediate joy that surrounds
a one night party. Everything is done
for the upcoming year. The color of
underwear you wear brings certain things in the coming year, yellow brings
luck, red brings love, green brings success, white brings peace. Do you want to travel more in the coming
year? If so, grab a suitcase and run
around the block. Why does everyone have
12 grapes? Obviously each grape
represents a month and when you eat them you make a wish for the month. You’re probably thinking to yourself, “Yeah
that all makes sense, but what’s up with all those fires in the street?” Well those fires start out as life size dolls
fully dressed in clothes complete with hats, shoes, sunglasses, and anything
else a person might wear. At midnight
these dolls are then burnt. Why? I haven’t a clue. If I had to guess, I would say it brings you
luck in the coming year or something along those lines.
So how does
a gringo navigate this holiday?
Lucas, my
site mate, and I were fortunate enough to have our friend and fellow volunteer,
Rebby, in town for a visit. We started
our night off at the dance club. Yes my
town has a club. Several actually. After polishing off several beers we decide
it would be best to go dance, which is always a spectacle for Peruvians to
watch. After about 30 minutes of dancing
the clock struck 11:50pm and we flock to the streets. Rebby has prior engagements with her family
so we walk her home, taking note of the best, worst, and funniest dolls we
find.
After
dropping Rebby off, we wait patiently at the top of hill for the clock to
strike midnight. Conversations are
difficult as the aforementioned bombs (fireworks) are nearly constant. I’m sure many of you are thinking, “Wow
constant fireworks? That must have been
a site to see!” Well not really. These fireworks simply make a loud bang. No color, no design, all noise. At midnight the dolls are lit and everybody
hugs. I mean everybody. Random guy on the street, hug him. A troupe of 7 year olds, hug them. Lady cooking food, hug her.
As we walk
through town taking in this strange spectacle we remember a party we were invited
to. As we are relatively new in town we
try to attend all social functions, gatherings, hangouts, or meetings that we
are invited to. But as is the gringos
way in small town Peru, we were sidetracked along the way.
There are
about a dozen people I will always stop to talk to, one of which is our
mayor. As we were walking we happened to
see the mayor and his family outside their house, so of course we strike up
conversation. After the initial
greetings we were invited in for hot chocolate and paneton (the most amazing
cake/bread food in the world). Of course
we accept. Sitting in our mayor’s living
room watching an American concert, we are approached by a relative that we met
earlier in the day. This man sure knows
how to celebrate the new years. He
offers us aguardiente (not sure how to spell it, but it is moonshine made from
sugar cane).
Now, if you
are new to the world of Peruvian moonshine there are a few things you should
know. First of all, it is strong. And when I say strong, I mean strong. They measure the strength in grados. Grado 26 is something like 160 proof. I think the max is grado 29, but I have been
told many different things. The second
thing to note is that it is cheap. You
can buy a half liter water bottle full of the stuff for S/. 4 (the Peruvian
currency is the Nuevo Sole. S/. 2.80 =
$1) and that’s the gringo price when you don’t know the guy selling. When you know the person you can get a liter
for S/. 3.00. The third thing to know is
that Peruvians, especially men in the age range of 40 - whenever they die, love
the stuff. Also, think about the safety
and sanitation you expect and are used to when you buy liquor. With this stuff, forget about it. Dirty bottles, dirty hands, bugs and other
things floating in it, it’s a whole new world.
But then again, people pay more money for tequila with worms in it…
But anyways,
we are offered and we accept, its rude to refuse. This is a good blend that he had
crafted. People usually will mix thing
in with their aguardiente to improve the flavor. This bottle had honey mixed into it, and was
fairly tasty. A glass of hot chocolate,
a piece of paneton and three drinks (any other number is apparently unlucky on
New Year’s) later we left giving gratitude to our hosts as we leave. The streets were alive and fires still blazed
but we were leaving early for the jungle for following morning and made our
separate ways, me to the bottom of the hill and Lucas to the top.
My first official act as a Peace Corps Volunteer was to grow a mustache. You might be wondering what my second official act was. I'll enlighten you. In the long dark nights (my family goes to sleep at 8pm) I have watched and ranked all of the James Bond movies. Enjoy! P.S.: I do real things. I currently am teaching summer school every morning. 