A very Peruvian New Year's

Bombs are exploding overhead and people fill the streets.  Shouts ring out down the street, clouds of smoke following the screams.  Looking down the hill you see countless fires raging in the streets, illuminating their surroundings.  “Where am I?” you wonder aloud in a language that few people around you understand.  Is this some strange war zone you are in?  No, this is Peru.  Happy New Year’s.

The New Year’s celebration is Peru is strikingly different from that in the states.  Sure there is drinking, dancing, and food to go around, but there is also so much more than that.  In a country rooted in traditions, it’s no surprise that there customs that extend beyond the immediate joy that surrounds a one night party.  Everything is done for the upcoming year.  The color of underwear you wear brings certain things in the coming year, yellow brings luck, red brings love, green brings success, white brings peace.  Do you want to travel more in the coming year?  If so, grab a suitcase and run around the block.  Why does everyone have 12 grapes?  Obviously each grape represents a month and when you eat them you make a wish for the month.  You’re probably thinking to yourself, “Yeah that all makes sense, but what’s up with all those fires in the street?”  Well those fires start out as life size dolls fully dressed in clothes complete with hats, shoes, sunglasses, and anything else a person might wear.  At midnight these dolls are then burnt.  Why?  I haven’t a clue.  If I had to guess, I would say it brings you luck in the coming year or something along those lines.

So how does a gringo navigate this holiday?

Lucas, my site mate, and I were fortunate enough to have our friend and fellow volunteer, Rebby, in town for a visit.  We started our night off at the dance club.  Yes my town has a club.  Several actually.  After polishing off several beers we decide it would be best to go dance, which is always a spectacle for Peruvians to watch.  After about 30 minutes of dancing the clock struck 11:50pm and we flock to the streets.  Rebby has prior engagements with her family so we walk her home, taking note of the best, worst, and funniest dolls we find. 

After dropping Rebby off, we wait patiently at the top of hill for the clock to strike midnight.  Conversations are difficult as the aforementioned bombs (fireworks) are nearly constant.  I’m sure many of you are thinking, “Wow constant fireworks?  That must have been a site to see!”  Well not really.  These fireworks simply make a loud bang.  No color, no design, all noise.  At midnight the dolls are lit and everybody hugs.  I mean everybody.  Random guy on the street, hug him.  A troupe of 7 year olds, hug them.  Lady cooking food, hug her. 

As we walk through town taking in this strange spectacle we remember a party we were invited to.  As we are relatively new in town we try to attend all social functions, gatherings, hangouts, or meetings that we are invited to.  But as is the gringos way in small town Peru, we were sidetracked along the way.

There are about a dozen people I will always stop to talk to, one of which is our mayor.  As we were walking we happened to see the mayor and his family outside their house, so of course we strike up conversation.  After the initial greetings we were invited in for hot chocolate and paneton (the most amazing cake/bread food in the world).  Of course we accept.  Sitting in our mayor’s living room watching an American concert, we are approached by a relative that we met earlier in the day.  This man sure knows how to celebrate the new years.  He offers us aguardiente (not sure how to spell it, but it is moonshine made from sugar cane). 

Now, if you are new to the world of Peruvian moonshine there are a few things you should know.  First of all, it is strong.  And when I say strong, I mean strong.  They measure the strength in grados.  Grado 26 is something like 160 proof.  I think the max is grado 29, but I have been told many different things.  The second thing to note is that it is cheap.  You can buy a half liter water bottle full of the stuff for S/. 4 (the Peruvian currency is the Nuevo Sole.  S/. 2.80 = $1) and that’s the gringo price when you don’t know the guy selling.  When you know the person you can get a liter for S/. 3.00.  The third thing to know is that Peruvians, especially men in the age range of 40 - whenever they die, love the stuff.  Also, think about the safety and sanitation you expect and are used to when you buy liquor.  With this stuff, forget about it.  Dirty bottles, dirty hands, bugs and other things floating in it, it’s a whole new world.  But then again, people pay more money for tequila with worms in it…

But anyways, we are offered and we accept, its rude to refuse.  This is a good blend that he had crafted.  People usually will mix thing in with their aguardiente to improve the flavor.  This bottle had honey mixed into it, and was fairly tasty.  A glass of hot chocolate, a piece of paneton and three drinks (any other number is apparently unlucky on New Year’s) later we left giving gratitude to our hosts as we leave.  The streets were alive and fires still blazed but we were leaving early for the jungle for following morning and made our separate ways, me to the bottom of the hill and Lucas to the top.